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Justin Bonello
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Oh Baby!
I’ve spent most of this year making other people’s dreams a reality. My production company Cooked in Africa Films filmed in Iceland, Mongolia and we’re still shooting in Burundi. We even did a cake show in the Mother City!
All of this meant that my own dreams took a backseat. But, the good news is that at the end of November we start filming my new six-part series about the Karoo.
But before spending the big bucks and dragging my entire crew into the heart of South Africa, I had to do due diligence and do a recce with two of my strongest crewmembers and DOPs, Sunel and Darren. And let’s face it - this road trip was a great excuse to get out of the office.
And so, two weeks ago we set off to the dusty road in one of our long wheel base Defenders and headed into the unknown – just the three of us, a full tank of juice, our camera gear, tents, a cooler box filled with stuff, and no real plan.
Those of you who’ve ever had the privilege of travelling in the Karoo will know that as you get out of the city all those things which I collectively call ‘stimulation pollution’ (the noise, traffic lights, people, bonds and rush hour traffic) flies out the window and you open yourself up to a space where, on a bad day, one car will actually drive past you.
So why come to the Karoo? Truth is my love affair with ‘the dry land’ started when I was a whippersnapper. My mom worked on a movie (Verspeelde Lente) on a Karoo farm called Elandsvlei. I remember being 8 or 9 years old, waking up early in the morning, and sneaking into the tannie’s kitchen (smelling of bread that had just come out of the oven) and eating porridge that was made on one of those old AGA stoves. Bliss.
To me, it seemed natural to return to that very farm (situated more or less halfway between Ceres and Calvinia). I was curious to see if Kobus (the owner of Elandsvlei) would still remember me. When we arrived, I sheepishly walked up to the main house. The front door was open (as they so often are in the Karoo). I knocked, and knocked and knocked, but there was no answer. So I knocked harder and harder and harder. Eventually the housekeeper came out to greet me. I explained to her that I was looking for Kobus and that I had been on his farm many years ago when my mother worked on ‘that Afrikaans film.’ She instinctively said ‘Verspeelde Lente’. It seems (even 30 years down the line) this film is still remembered as ‘a big event’ in the Karoo.
It turned out that Kobus was on a neighbouring farm (I guess he was watching the World Cup) and would only be home that afternoon. I arranged to come back later and spent the day filming on the farm, visiting places from my childhood memories.
As the sun was setting, we went back to the main house, but this time it was completely locked up. No one was there, so an impromptu decision was made by the three of us to (illegally) camp on the farm at one of the many beautiful spots we had seen during the day. That night, sleeping in my tent, in my sleeping bag, on top of rocks poking into my back, I had the best night’s sleep I have ever had.
The next morning, we packed up the Defender and made our way across to Calvinia, hoping that the annual Vleis Fees would be in full swing. Turns out we were about two months too late, and arrived at an almost empty, dusty Karoo town. We sat on the stoep at a pub (ironically called The Waterfront) and watched time pass by. Locals walked past us and waved and greeted us with that distinctive middag! and dagsé! In Cape Town you’re lucky if you get a nod from a passerby.
Because there was nothing better to do in Calvinia than sit around and drink beer (which wasn’t all that bad), we made another impromptu decision and left for Sutherland via the back roads. I’ve never seen the Karoo in full spring bloom and the landscape showed off an incredible kaleidoscope of purple flowers as far as the eye could see.
While Sunel and Darren were filming the purple haze, I found myself straining to hear something. Anything. If you’ve ever been surrounded by this kind of silence, you’ll understand when I say you flap your ears trying to hear any noise. I kept turning around and listening, swinging in different directions. But all I heard were my own thoughts. Not even a car passed by. In fact, if we wanted to, we could have set up camp right next to that dirt road and we would have been left entirely to our own devices.
By now you must be wondering why I took the Defender and not the Disco. If you compare the two, driving the Discovery is like flying first class. And because the Defender is the perfect travelling car, it’s like flying in economy (minus that kid sitting behind you, kicking your chair) filled with interesting people and great stories to tell.
In some respects the Disco is almost too flash for a place as humble as the Karoo. And even though the Discovery V8 HSE is a beautiful car (and makes me feel like James Bond when I drive it) there’s nothing gritty or down to earth about it. I took it into the Karoo last year, so I know how well it handles off-road, but more often than not, I found myself putting foot and speeding past the most incredible landscapes. Driving the Defender made me feel like Indiana Jones - I ended up with grit in my teeth and a layer of dust on my face and arms.
We ended off our trip by spending two nights at SALT (South African Large Telescope) in Sutherland. Martin Wilkenson (one of the astronomers) showed me around the South African Astronomical Observatory and told me something I didn’t know: He said that the human eye and the iris specifically, is 7mm wide when fully open in the dark. The ‘iris’ on SALT’s telescope is 11m wide, so you can just imagine what they see! And then he told me something else I wasn’t aware of. Did you know that all the photos ever taken of the stars are actually in black and white? The only reason we see those fantastic constellations in full colour is because they add filters and effects to it as they imagine it to look like.
It’s funny to think that even with everything that’s changed over time, mankind has been asking the same question for centuries: ‘Is there life out there?’ In many respects that’s what my new show will be about: Is there life in the Karoo and what’s it like? I’m just lucky enough to not have to look at it through a telescope. I get to go and find the answers I’m looking for in my trusty Land Rover.